Ray visits a cave near the capital Palermo to give us his take on how, according to Greek legend, Odysseus got one over on the Cyclops that captured and ate half his crew. When Ray, Matt and Bruno hit town they find themselves at the very centre of an ancient, noisy and unique city. They discover Palermo’s markets and its traders, they try the opera (not a great success) and charm a Duchess. And they meet Manfredi Barbera, Sicily’s biggest olive oil exporter, who shows them a tree that’s a thousand years old and still producing olives.